Add tomatoes, olives, capers, and red pepper flakes. So, for both flavour and texture, passata and puree win the day. 4 anchovies, rinsed if packed in salt, roughly chopped, 50g good-quality black olives, stoned and roughly chopped, 1 tbsp brined capers, rinsed if packed in salt, roughly chopped, Small bunch of flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped. After that drain it in a colander, return it to the saucepan presto pronto, and toss the sauce in it, adding the basil. For a better experience on Delia Online website, enable JavaScript in your browser. The River Cafe and Sforza add dried oregano to their sauces, while almost everyone else relies on fresh flat-leaf parsley alone – Contaldo suggests basil instead. Put a large pan of well-salted water on to boil. Anchovies, whatever the Neapolitans might think, are a must, and not just any sort either. If that’s what you’ve got in the cupboard, by all means use it – this isn’t a dish that ought to stand on ceremony – but for preference, I’d stick with spaghetti. Even these are interchangeable; in Naples, apparently, they don’t tend to use the anchovies, while the Accademia Italiana della Cucina omits the chilli. Contaldo finishes his dish with parmesan and Bastianich pecorino, but, whatever the rules about cheese and fish, I think the sauce should have enough savoury oomph to make any such additions completely unnecessary. Last modified on Wed 11 Mar 2020 07.37 EDT. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. These prove to be the backbone of the dish, to my slight surprise – I’d never really thought of a puttanesca as a tomato-based sauce, more of a loose amalgamation of ingredients of roughly equal importance. The milder onion, however, just gets lost, so I’m going to tell it to do just that. Add a few drops of olive oil and a little salt and then, 8 minutes before the sauce is ready, plunge the spaghetti into the water. Makinze is the Associate Food Editor for The heat of the garlic and chilli is countered by umami in the form of anchovies, olives and capers. Are anchovies essential in ‘whore’s pasta’, do you top it with cheese, and what other store-cupboard standbys do you cook when the fridge is bare? Then add all the other sauce ingredients, stir and season with a little pepper – but no salt yet because of the anchovies. So just how do you do it right? I prefer the fiercer heat of the dried variety, which, in any case, seem more appropriate to the store-cupboard theme. Sprinkle with parsley and Parmesan and serve. This recipe is from Delia's Summer Collection. When bubbling, add the pasta, stir, and cook for 8-10 minutes according to packet instructions, until very slightly underdone. Add the passata and puree and stir well, then simmer vigorously for about five minutes, or until the pasta is done. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and let simmer, 15 minutes. Whenever time and raw materials are short, whether that is because you’ve been working late (whatever your profession), or you’ve just been too lazy/hungover to go the shops, pasta is usually the answer. Turn the heat to low and let the sauce simmer very gently without a lid for 40 minutes, by which time it will have reduced to a lovely thick mass, with very little liquid left. Roddy suggests an alternative of tinned tomatoes and puree, but I prefer the smoother consistency of passata – plus even the best tinned tomatoes can be watery unless they’re cooked down, and this seems to be less of a problem with the passata. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content on their web site. Angela Hartnett and Italian-American celebrity chef Lidia Bastianich use tinned tomatoes; Valentina Sforza, the author of 500 Pasta Dishes, goes for passata; The Geometry of Pasta makes a light tomato sauce and combines it with cherry tomatoes; Rachel Roddy of the Roman food blog Rachel Eats mixes ripe tomatoes and puree; while The River Cafe Classic Italian goes down the fresh-only route with plum tomatoes, as does Gennaro Contaldo with cherry tomatoes. Hartnett suggests swapping in linguine, which works fine, and Bastianich fusilli, which, while it’s better at trapping bits of caper and olive, doesn’t hold the tomato sauce as obligingly. They should melt into the sauce, rather than supplying its garnish, leaving little trace of fishiness but an intense flavour of the sea. Bursting with flavor and so easy to prepare, you'll be craving this pasta every week. Puttanesca is the supreme example – more satisfyingly savoury than a simple aglio e olio, but less work than a carbonara, it is a handy one to master. Whatever the truth about its origins and myths, I think the most oft-quoted story, that it was a cheap dish the working girls of Naples could knock up from the cupboard between tricks, is a useful one to bear in mind. This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. Add olives, capers, tomatoes, black pepper, and parsley. Presumably the sauce has adopted this name because it's hot, strong and gutsy – anyway, eating it is a highly pleasurable experience. Pasta Puttanesca (Tart's Spaghetti) | Recipes | Delia Online To make the sauce, heat the oil in a medium saucepan, then add the garlic, chilli and basil and cook these briefly till the garlic is pale gold.